Searching For funckiana... An Andean Adventure
Cargo Report - Vol. 8 #4 September 1998
Pictures from the adventures!
Cargo Report - Vol. 8 #4 September 1998
Searching For funckiana... An Andean Adventure
(March, 2024 edit by Dennis Cathcartt
Lithophytic or rock dwelling Tillandsias are a passion of mine. For whatever reason, the sight of these delicate-looking plants growing on harsh and exposed, often sunbaked and bone-dry walls of granite and limestone strike a chord deep within. Over the years, I have sought the Tillandsia species that make these inaccessible and inhospitable places their home. Our explorations have taken us from the desert canyons of Mexico to the cliffs of the Ecuadorian Andes and the vast high desert valleys of Bolivia. We have climbed on the granite domes of Brazil and scaled jungle covered cliffs in Honduras. Still, there was one prize that had eluded us, Tillandsia funckiana.
Amongst the loveliest of the Tillandsias, this little species grows in cascading clusters of many individual plants, each blushing cherry red, with a single crimson flower at anthesis. We got our first plants from Henrique Graf, many years ago. Visiting his nursery on the outskirts of Caracas, one can see many clusters of these little beauties growing on tree fern logs. Some clumps in his beautiful private garden are massive, the size of an oil drum and contain perhaps thousands of individual plants! When we visit, we always marvel at these massive specimens, but one thing our visits to Venezuela have always lacked: seeing funckiana in habitat. Until one sees for his or her own self how a plant really grows and responds to its habitat, then one cannot really know the plant. I wanted to know Tillandsia funckiana!
In January of this year, Linda and I fulfilled one of our wishes. Already in Venezuela for a trip to the Orinoco headwaters, we had an opportunity on the way back to visit our long desired funckiana habitat. High in the Venezuelan Andes, outside of Merida, Henrique Graf knew of a large colony of Tillandsia funckiana. With that in mind, we made our way westward across the savanna-like llanos, to the foothills of the Andes. Along the way, we saw many Tillandsias and bromeliad species, such as Billbergia rosea and an abundance of orchids. As our road turned into the mountains, the savanna yielded to jungle and the profusion of plants associated with it. We found trees covered with bromeliads, orchids, aroids, ferns of all types, and much more. Birds of every color vied with jewel-like butterflies for our attention. Then Merida, a gem of a city in a cool mountain valley below Pico Bolivar, Venezuela’s highest, loomed into view. Our stay in Merida was relaxing and playing tourist in this beautiful city was a welcome break from our weeks on the Orinoco, but we couldn’t really rest, being so close to fulfilling our dream of seeing Tillandsia funckiana in habitat.
When the day came for our search, we drove westward to a series of dry valleys. Here in the vastness was our quarry, but where? We struck out for likely looking habitats and found a profusion of plants, orchids, like Brassavola nodosa in the millions, Tillandsia flexuosa ‘Vivipara’ in colonies of thousands among the cacti and many savage Bromelias, waiting the chance to tear one’s trouser legs, but no funckiana! Then, seeing suspicious patches of color on the other side of the valley and across the raging Rio Chama, we knew we had found our prize, but how to get to them! We followed the river and eventually found a foot-bridge across the roiling currents. Here, on the steep rocky slopes, among the cacti, were tens of thousands of beautiful Tillandsia funckiana. Growing in full sun were many clones. We noted variations in color, size, and leaf form from one colony to another. We documented our find with photos and left, fully satisfied having fulfilled a long-held goal.
But wait, the story doesn’t end here! There is another colony of Tillandsia funckiana, this one at a much lower altitude and much smaller, near the coast. Heading back towards Caracas, we detoured first to Barquisimeto to investigate a mountain top cloud forest. Here, up one of the roughest roads we have ever seen, was a misty forest filled with botanical treasures. Amongst the forested slopes were shallow pools of cool water surrounded by a profusion of epiphytic plants. Aroids in infinite variety and unusual bromeliads such as Mezobromelia and beautifully massive Guzmania squarrosa added color to the shades of green. We explored the forest, getting soaked by the dew-covered foliage, and took time to marvel at the variety of life. We found a variegated palm with boldly white striped fronds and an interesting epiphytic caudiciform plant. Then it was time to move on towards Valencia.
From Valencia, a beautiful but hot city in the lowlands, we made our last excursion to the wilds. Near an old road that once led to Puerto Cabello, passing through some rugged and seasonally dry hills, was the only known habitat of the low growing form of Tillandsia funckiana. A labyrinth of dirt roads and footpaths crisscrossed the mountains, and we took several of them in our search. Iguanas greeted us in the thorny undergrowth, and we found some other interesting plants of note. Perhaps the best of the lot was an unusual Asclepiad, a thick caudiciform with a vine of leathery leaves. I was ecstatic at the find and scaled a steep rock wall to get a few samples, which were growing out of a narrow crevice. It appears to be a relative of Gonolobus. Fortunately, we could also collect some seed which we have since germinated. Anyway, this is also home to perhaps the most endangered population of Tillandsia funckiana. We finally found a single colony, thousands of plants, on a steep cliff of black rock. Agaves and cacti shared the wall, as did some Philodendron species. The funckiana were resplendent in the sun and many were in bloom. We documented the colony with photographs before saying goodbye to this rare gem in a rare and vanishing paradise.