Tropiflora's Bromeliad Care Guide
Photo by Dennis Cathcart
Bromeliads are among the easiest and most rewarding plants to cultivate. Useful as houseplants, container plants for the patio, for landscaping (in warm zones) and as collectible specimens that require minimal care, and will thrive, rewarding the grower with beautiful foliage, blooms and years of enjoyment.
Here are a few simple and easy tips to get you started in the right direction.
(Note: This care blog is general and aimed mostly at common potted-type bromeliads.)
What is the best growing environment for bromeliads?
AIR MOVEMENT
Grow your bromeliad in a well-ventilated area. Good ventilation will help avoid problems that could arise, such as fungal diseases, scale, mealy bugs and other pests and can help prevent overheating in sunny or hot locations.
light
Bromeliads show their best color and form if kept in bright light within tolerable limits. 3000 to 4000 foot candles is considered ideal for most, though some will tolerate a low of 2000 while others up to 6000 in areas of higher humidity. Not all bromeliads thrive in the same conditions. A few rules of thumb may be helpful to determine light requirements of your bromeliad:
- Bromeliads with soft foliage that may be spineless or have small spines, is deep green or discolor (green above, reddish below) generally like less light and usually do best out of direct sun, often making good houseplants.
- Those with brightly colored or silvery, somewhat stiff leaves with moderate spines thrive in bright light, up to partial sun.
- Very stiff or succulent leaves, heavy spines, yellowish-green or reddish coloration may indicate tolerance for more sunlight.
- If in doubt, keep your plant in some degree of shade and increase the light intensity in stages over a period of weeks until it reaches its best potential. Too little light causes weak, etiolated, fading or poorly colored foliage. Too much light may cause bleaching or burning on the leaves upper surfaces that will result in patches of dry brown or yellow.
Moisture and Humidity
Bromeliads are native to a variety of habitats and therefore have varied needs for water. It is natural for ‘tank type’ bromeliads to have water in the central ‘cup’ formed by the leaves. Most bromeliads do not like to be kept in wet soil. Humidity requirements vary from moderately dry to quite humid. Indoors, a humidity level of 40 to 60% would be ideal, and can be augmented by a ‘pebble tray’. Outdoors, ambient humidity will normally suffice.
temperature
Protect bromeliads from frost. Preferred temperature range is 70 to 95°F, though many can take short-term dips to near freezing in landscape situations. A few exceptional varieties can even tolerate a light freeze with little or no damage.
CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS
POTTING
For most varieties a well-drained medium consisting of bark, peat, perlite and/or a mix of other organic and inorganic media that promotes drainage and aeration, but retains some moisture will do well. Choose a pot sufficient to hold the plant upright. Avoid over potting, you can repot later if needed.
WATERING
Bromeliads do not like wet feet! Though some like more moisture than others, none thrive in wet soil. Water thoroughly as needed when soil becomes dry to the touch just below the surface. Drench the plant and soil with enough water to flush the cup and run out the bottom of the pot, usually 1 to 3 times per week as dictated by your local conditions. Use water low in salts and, ideally, on the acid side, pH 6.5 or lower. Bromeliad ‘cups’ that hold water may be kept filled or empty. You should flush old water when watering, do not just refill the cup. Always wet the soil as well, whether you keep water in the cup or not. Bromeliads are very drought tolerant. It is always better to keep them too dry than too wet. “When in doubt, don’t water.”
FERTILIZING
Feed with a water-soluble fertilizer such as a 20-10-20, at intervals that would equal a tablespoon per gallon per month in irrigation water. Example: ½ tablespoon/gallon bi-weekly or ¼ tablespoon/gallon weekly, etc. A slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote® or Nutricote® may be applied to the soil surface at label rates once or twice a year. Note that urea sourced nitrogen can not be used by bromeliads. Choose a brand of fertilizer using nitrate as it chief nitrogen source.
problems
Few pests or diseases routinely infest bromeliads, though problems may occur if the environment is not right.
- Poor air circulation, over or under watering and poor quality water are the cause of many common bromeliad problems.
- Most insect pests such as scale and mealy bugs can be avoided with good air circulation and by controlling ants that ‘farm’ scale and other insects. If scale or mealybugs appear, removing them with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol can treat them, as will a mild soap solution or as a last resort; chemical sprays.
- Exposure to metal salts can be the source of problems. Avoid exposure to pressure treated lumber or copper in any form. Water dripping from pressure treated or ‘green’ lumber will carry enough copper or other metals to severely damage your bromeliads. Copper or zinc based fungicides may damage bromeliads. Do not worry about these metals in fertilizer.